From leisurely walks followed by traditional Sunday roasts, to festivals that celebrate storytelling, heritage and folklore - Edinburgh in autumn offers more than you might expect. Whether you're visiting with family or seeking a quiet escape, the season is full of surprises. All within easy reach of The Balmoral, where a roaring fire and a glass of Scotch await your return.
As the summer draws to a close, the city takes on a gentler rhythm. Picture steam-fogged café windows, golden leaves carpeting cobbled streets, and the early nightfall that calls for long evenings spent together. It’s a time for slow walks, browsing local bookshops, and hearty cuisine. Autumn in Edinburgh is less about grand spectacle and more about quiet, romantic joys. With The Balmoral as your base in the heart of the city, here’s how to make the most of the season.
Step inside the city’s hidden corners and uncover the lesser-known chapters of its fascinating past. Landing in Edinburgh in September, this nationwide festival remains free and open to all, unlocking historic townhouses, archives, galleries, and institutions rarely open to the public.
Key highlights in Edinburgh:
In October, experience Edinburgh’s annual celebration of heritage, imagination and connection at the Scottish Storytelling Centre. One of the city’s most atmospheric literary events, the festival features live readings, workshops, family sessions and a popular nature writing competition. In an increasingly digital world, this festival invites you to pause, listen, and rediscover the joys of storytelling.
Beneath the cliffs of Arthur’s Seat, this annual festival reimagines the ancient Celtic rite marking the end of summer and the coming of winter. Hosted by the Beltane Fire Society on the 31st of October, expect fire-dancers, battle drums and theatrical storytelling as the Summer and Winter Kings clash in a dramatic procession.
Explore Edinburgh on foot this autumn, amongst the cool air and changing leaves. Join a guided tour through the Blair Street Underground Vaults and descend into the city’s haunted underbelly - unchanged since the 18th century. Or, embrace your inner witch or wizard on the popular Potter Trail, winding past locations that inspired the books.
The chill in the air only adds to Edinburgh’s reputation as one of the most haunted cities in Europe. Just minutes from The Balmoral, you’ll find the Edinburgh Dungeon - an immersive dive into Scotland’s darkest tales. Nearby, visit The Real Mary King’s Close, a preserved street frozen in time beneath the Royal Mile, or take a ghost tour through the city led by storytellers who bring its murky history to life.
Autumn invites slower days and leaf-kicking walks - best rounded off in a cosy bookshop. As the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature, Edinburgh is rich in independents. In Leith, Elvis Shakespeare combines rare books with vintage vinyl, while in the city centre, McNaughtan’s caters to collectors. And don’t miss regular author talks and signings at the award-winning Golden Hare Books.
Sundays were made for gathering with loved ones and sharing comfort food. After a walk through the city’s golden parks, settle in for a traditional roast dinner at Scotland’s oldest pub, The Sheep Heid Inn, or enjoy sirloin of beef with all the trimmings at Brasserie Prince. Meanwhile, at Makars Mash Bar, hearty plates showcase local producers, think haggis with heather honey, followed by sticky toffee pudding. And as the mornings grow darker, there’s no better way to start your day than The Balmoral’s Full Scottish Breakfast, complete with black pudding, buttered toast, and steaming coffee.
Thomas J. Walls, once an optician’s office, is now a popular café filled with warmth and character. Nearby, Fortitude Coffee serves small-batch brews from its beautiful Georgian terrace. On Thistle Street, The Cobbled Roastery roasts its beans daily, while The Milkman tempts with sweet pastries and cakes.
Edinburgh Cocktail Week is a yearly celebration of the city's best cocktail bars. With a wristband, enjoy £5 signature drinks at more than 100 top bars across the city, or sample creative concoctions from 24 pop-up bars at the Cocktail Village at Festival Square - from smoky Scotch blends to botanical gins and theatrical tipples.
Step back in time with a gentle riverside walk through the picturesque Dean Village, a former milling community filled with chocolate-box cottages and leafy paths. Follow the Water of Leith walkway to reach Stockbridge, a lively village with galleries, independent boutiques, and a Sunday market, or call in at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art en route..
Wander Edinburgh’s most iconic street, steeped in centuries of history. The Royal Mile connects the castle to Holyrood Palace and is lined with closes and wynds to explore. Once filled with brewers and traders, now you’ll find hidden courtyards, artisan shops and cafés. It’s perfect for a leisurely afternoon with plenty of stops along the way.
Take the Regent Road Path and you’ll reach one of the city’s best viewpoints in no time. Bring a coffee and enjoy the view, watching as the city’s landmarks glow in the soft autumn light - from Edinburgh Castle to The Balmoral’s own clock tower.
Perfectly placed at No. 1 Princes Street, The Balmoral offers a charming retreat in the heart of the city. With Edinburgh’s historic landmarks on your doorstep and Waverley Station just moments away, it’s an ideal base for exploring. At day’s end, return to tartan throws, warm interiors and thoughtful service. Sip a whisky by the fire, or relax in your suite overlooking the autumn skyline.
As the evenings grow longer, settle in for a dram or two at SCOTCH. Choose from over 500 unique varieties of Scottish whisky, including rare and limited edition bottles, or experience one of our guided tasting sessions with one of our knowledgeable Whisky Ambassadors.
At Bar Prince, sip a signature cocktail or a glass of Champagne while enjoying live performances from talented local musicians every Thursday. Jazz, soul and acoustic sets bring a touch of glamour to autumn evenings.
After a day spent out in the autumn air, The Balmoral’s elegant rooms and suites offer a warm welcome. With heritage fabrics, soft lighting, and fireplaces in select suites, it’s easy to spend the evening curled up with a book in our J.K. Rowling Suite, where The Deathly Hallows was finished. Or watching the fire flicker with a whisky in hand in our Balmoral Suite overlooking the old town.
The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, where Old Town meets New, a legendary hotel and landmark clock tower: a symbol of its city
The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, where Old Town meets New, a legendary hotel and landmark clock tower: a symbol of its city
The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, where Old Town meets New, a legendary hotel and landmark clock tower: a symbol of its city