Milan on a Plate

Few cities have shaped Italy’s table quite like Milan. Arguably best known for its extraordinary fashion and design scene, the city’s culinary story is one less often told - though no less remarkable. It is one best read on a plate, through recipes handed down over centuries.  

Risotto alla Milanese, perfumed with saffron and rich with bone marrow, has been a golden favourite since the Renaissance. Cotoletta alla Milanese, crisped in butter, epitomises Lombard heartiness, while panettone, first baked in the courts of the fifteenth century, has become a festive icon far beyond Italy’s borders. These dishes endure because they tell stories of artistry — each as recognisable and timeless as a signature piece of couture.

It is within this context that The Carlton will open in November, at the crossroads of Milan’s cultural and culinary life in the Quadrilatero della Moda. Chef Fulvio Pierangelini’s philosophy of simplicity, sincerity and reverence for ingredients will guide the restaurants’ seasonally led menus. And the heart of the hotel, The Carlton Bar – conceived as a new gathering place for the city – is where Maestro Salvatore Calabrese brings fresh perspective to Milan’s aperitivo culture.

Part of a legacy that extends well beyond its doors, the hotel finds itself in good company, with cafes and bars that have long been theatres of style and society. When Gaspare Campari unveiled his eponymous crimson aperitif in the 1860s, it sparked a Milanese ritual later enshrined at Caffè Camparino in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, where a simple pre-dinner sip was transformed into a curated performance. Fast forward almost 100 years and Bar Basso, with its invention of the Negroni Sbagliato, carried that spirit into the modern age. Today, aperitivo remains one of Milan’s most distinctive exports, a global mix that is equal parts tradition and cultural showcase.

Just as emblematic of the city is its caffè couture — like fashion, the Milanese take their coffee seriously. In a city always on the move, it is an almost sacred pause, bound by unspoken codes and carried out with care. And, like a well-ordered catwalk, timing is everything. Order a cappuccino after breakfast and eyebrows will be raised, while espresso is the perfect conclusion to a meal - bookended by an aperitivo, of course. In institutions such as Pasticceria Cova, with its marble counters and chandeliers, or Pasticceria Marchesi 1824, where Prada’s jewel-box interiors frame each cup, coffee is treated with the same reverence as tailoring. 

Milan’s dining scene is also in constant evolution. While heritage trattorie still serve ossobuco and minestrone alla Milanese with respect, a new generation of chefs and restaurants pushes the conversation forward. Modern kitchens such as Trippa, celebrated for its refined take on offal, and Langosteria, a byword for polished seafood dining, capture the city’s evolving palate. Sustainable dining, global influences and design-driven concepts now reflect Milan’s position as a cosmopolitan capital. Even casual dining wears a certain flair, from elevated street food counters like Panzerotti Luini to contemporary takes on panettone that turn a festive staple into a year-round indulgence.

Milan’s food culture, then, is a dialogue between past and future. It is as layered and dynamic as the city itself, where heritage is considered a foundation for reinvention. And in the neighbourhood of the Quadrilatero della Moda, at The Carlton, the legacy of culinary couture will continue to inspire, evolve and set the pace for what’s next.