Milan, Between Icons and Treasures

“Milan is a city that must be read carefully,” says Mariateresa Cairo, as she leads the way into a quiet courtyard tucked behind Via della Spiga. “Its hidden corners, private residences, and precious treasures are often unknown even to Milanese themselves.”

For more than thirty years, she has dedicated her career as a cultural guide to revealing these secrets, unlocking doors that are usually very firmly closed. We meet her in the heart of the city, where Via della Spiga meets Via Senato, at The Carlton, a distinctly Milanese address surrounded by noble palazzi, designer boutiques, and storied architecture. “My work is to reveal these treasures… so that visitors feel privileged and can truly appreciate the uniqueness of what they are experiencing.”

Unravelling the city’s secrets has led to some remarkable moments. She recalls arranging a private opening of the Duomo, complete with an organ recital and  dinner at Pinacoteca Ambrosiana among Renaissance masterpieces. She has secured exclusive tours of The Last Supper accompanied by eminent historians, and once even persuaded Giorgio Armani to stage a private fashion show — a rare concession from the designer.

“It is a privilege to witness something so unique, and deeply rewarding to see guests' wonder and gratitude when living one-of-a-kind experiences.” 

Yet Milan’s essence is also found in the everyday rhythm of the city. Strolling through the Quadrilatero, its famed fashion district, generations-old artisans and jewellers share the streets with visionary design studios -  “The Quadrilatero is alive and ever-evolving. Its shops and ateliers are themselves true works of art, part of a fabric that is both authentic and refined,” she explains. 

The Lombardy capital reinvents itself regularly, visible where Roman foundations meet Renaissance palazzi, as skyscrapers rise behind them. This layering is what makes it so compelling - “Milan is changing at extraordinary speed – even its skyline is constantly evolving”.

Armani/Silos has sparked new creative energy, MUDEC draws global exhibitions, and the Fondazione Prada has transformed the city’s south. The ancient juxtaposed with the new – it’s all part of the Milan she is keen to share. 

“This is the spirit one breathes in the very heart of Milan: vibrant, active, and above all authentic,” she says. For her, the city is more than a list of landmarks; it is a place of rare encounters. The Duomo, Teatro alla Scala, and Castello Sforzesco can all be explored in a single day — but with Mariateresa, they become extraordinary.

Beyond the headline events in art and design, guests are keen to delve into traditions that have endured for centuries. “I enjoy organising visits to historic workshops where remarkable craftsmanship has been handed down for generations,” she says. One of her favourites is a ceramic studio run by the descendants of one of Italy’s oldest families, where hand-painted tableware is still created within the palace courtyard.

Gastronomy is part of this story too, where guest curiosity is now turning towards historic food shops. Spice merchants, pastry stores, wine cellars, and family-run delis form part of the tour routes, often ending with an aperitivo overlooking Piazza del Duomo — or with Milan’s most beloved street food, a warm panzerotto.

For Mariateresa, what matters is not only what guests see, but how they experience it. Her Milan is one of contrasts, where grandeur and intimacy coexist seamlessly. It is this interplay that makes the city endlessly fascinating - “Milan is a hidden city — even for those of us who have lived here all our lives, there are always new courtyards and corners to discover. One never stops being surprised.”

Opening this November, The Carlton becomes the key to Milan: a city of icons and intimacies, where every guest can explore at their own pace.