The soul of a destination – that special something all travellers yearn to glimpse – is really the soul of its people. It is timeless humanity refracted by a place’s unique qualities, by its bounty and scarcity, its landscape and climate.
You can't bottle soul, of course. But it can take physical form. Not the 21 grams of legend per se, but as craft – as human creation born of raw local ingredients, historical necessity, outside influence and skills learned at mother's knee.
That’s why, as travellers, to buy craft is to buy well – you return home with a soul souvenir. Whether woven in Brussels, fashioned in Florence, cast in Munich or found in London's historic workshops, these are objects that tell the story of the places that made them.
Of lace and legend in Brussels
From candle flames to butterflies, the soul conjures delicate imagery. Fitting, then, that the most quintessentially Brussels of crafts is a fine lace made in the city since the late 1600s. The lace’s intricacy speaks to necessity – locals needed a desirable product to raise funds when crops failed. And desirable it certainly was, prized at Europe’s royal courts as a symbol of taste and status. Brussels lace is of an almost ethereal texture owing to the Flemish flax, spun in damp cellars to protect its integrity. One might picture a spider’s web. Another quality to look out for in Brussels lace is its assembly – rather than creating a whole piece at once, local lacemakers would individually craft design motifs before combining them into one exquisite piece. Seek out a keepsake of Brussels lace – a beautifully trimmed handkerchief or fan, perhaps – at venerable boutique La Manufacture Belge de Dentelles in the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a five-minute stroll from Hotel Amigo.
Of exile and endeavour in London
Craft is not to be held up as a beacon of constancy. One of London’s defining crafts, for instance, speaks to the city’s status as a place of ceaseless comings and goings. Were it not for the thread of tolerance to outsiders running through London’s history, Protestant Huguenots may not have found their way to England’s capital upon their exile from France in the late 17th century. And had they not, they would not have been employable by the printers, clockmakers, engravers and enamellers of Clerkenwell. Huguenot labour powered a rich artisanal energy in Clerkenwell that survives to this day. Visit in May to enjoy the neighbourhood’s Design Week and, imbued with newfound creativity, pick up an exquisite pen or piece of fine stationery from Stuart R. Stevenson on Clerkenwell Road, or a timepiece from the neighbouring Antique Watch Company. From Brown’s Hotel, make a creative adventure of it by meandering to Clerkenwell, appreciating some of London’s great temples to taste along the way, from the Royal Academy of Arts to Sir John Soane's Museum.
Of steins and stories in Munich
It's practically impossible to leave Munich without enjoying a German Helles or Weissbier. As you raise your glass, you may notice your beer is served in an elaborately decorated stein, crafted not from glass but from pewter, stone or ceramic, often with a hinged lid. Historically, these sturdy vessels kept beer refreshingly cool, while the lid was a practical safeguard against dust and insects. Today, the beer stein has become one of Bavaria's most enduring symbols of craftsmanship, hand-painted, engraved and passed from generation to generation. From The Charles Hotel, seek out an authentic example at Glaskunst Huber, run by husband-and-wife team Friedrich and Ingrid Huber, whose dedication to preserving traditional craftsmanship is reflected in every hand-painted piece.
Of guilds and friars in Florence
Florence is associated with transcendent art, but one of the city’s great crafts has its roots in a historically lowly trade: tanning. With much water required for the malodorous process, the city’s medieval Arte dei Cuoiai e Galigai tanners guild was set up near the banks of the Arno. Monastic knowledge also fed into the city's leatherworking tradition, which lives on at the Scuola del Cuoio, founded by Franciscan friars, where you can learn the craft for yourself in a wallet-making class. To source a souvenir that honours the city’s tanning lineage, venture out from Hotel Savoy, crossing the river by either the beautiful Ponte Vecchio or Ponte Santa Trinita, and enter the inner sanctum of Giulio Giannini e Figlio, creator of hand-bound books since 1856.
The finest souvenirs are the stories you bring home. Discover Brussels, London, Munich and Florence through the people, craftsmanship and neighbourhoods that make each destination unique.
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